The islands of Frioul and ‘Château d’If’ (If Castle)

The Frioul Islands

Lying opposite Marseille, the Frioul archipelago comprises four islands: Pomègues, Ratonneau, Tiboulen and If. The arid climate surrounding the archipelago gives rise to rare and even endemic flora. Seabirds are also found on the islands, such as the yellow-legged gull, known as the ‘gabian’ to the locals.

These islands have been owned by the city of Marseille since 1971. The village of Port-Frioul has developed there, along with a marina with 700 moorings. A number of businesses have also opened, including restaurants and shops. The fish farm on Pomègues Island breeds sea bass and gilthead seabream.

The Château d’If

It was in 1516 that King Francis I had the idea of building a fortress on the Île d’If during a visit to Marseille. The building very quickly became a prison due to its isolation, making it more difficult for prisoners to escape. Among the inmates was the famous prisoner José Custodio Faria, made famous by Alexandre Dumas, author of The Count of Monte Cristo. The site is full of ‘little stories’. Among other things, you can see the legendary hole dug in the wall by Edmond Dantès during his escape. The fortress eventually housed the insurgents of 1848 and the Communards of 1871. It ceased to be used as a prison before being opened to the general public in 1890.

Ratonneau

Ratonneau Island is less wild, but just as interesting, and more suitable for walking and swimming with children. Stretching 2.7 km in length, you can explore it on foot, by bike or on a little train in the summer. Around a hundred residents live there year-round, sometimes braving the weather to travel to central Marseille on the ferry. These residents, who cherish their way of life, nevertheless welcome visitors warmly by organising events such as fun runs, art fairs and so on. Small shops, bars and restaurants bring the village to life in the high season, and the presence of boaters, who come to rig their boats or have lunch on board, adds to the buzz.

In summer, the ferry services increase their frequency and also run late into the evening.

A small chapel resembling an ancient temple overlooks the harbour and the houses: it was built so that sailors whose boats were in quarantine could attend religious services.

The Léo Lagrange holiday centre is the only accommodation facility in the archipelago. It welcomes groups, school trips, sports camps and family gatherings. It is open from March to November.

The path leading to Saint-Estève beach and the Caroline Hospital then passes in front of the Maison des Pilotes. This building, shaped like a ship’s prow, is the residence of the pilots of the Grand Port Maritime de Marseille (GPMM): seasoned sailors, they are responsible for piloting ships in place of their captains right up to the quay. The Maison des Pilotes served as the setting for Robert Guédiguian’s film “Marie-Jo and Her Two Loves”.

Saint Estève beach is about a half-hour’s walk from the landing stage. It is the only real beach on Frioul: its turquoise waters feature an underwater trail for exploring the flora and fauna, with five buoys guiding you through the calanque. In summer, this beach is lifeguarded and has showers, toilets and a refreshment bar. You can also get there by mini-train.

Tiboulen de Ratonneau

Diving enthusiasts are familiar with this islet at the western tip of Ratonneau. The underwater terrain, the currents and the fact that the archipelago is sheltered from the east wind foster a wide variety of flora and fauna. Nearby, a little deeper down, the wreck of a German bomber aircraft from the Second World War also attracts experienced divers.