Cours Estienne d’Orves

Just a stone’s throw from the Old Port, in Marseille’s 1st arrondissement, the Cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves is one of the city’s most pleasant squares. Named in honour of Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves, a French naval officer, Second World War hero and figure in the Resistance, this spacious pedestrianised area charms visitors with its friendly atmosphere and Italian-inspired architecture. Lined with restaurants, cafés, bookshops and art galleries, it is the ideal place to take a break, relax on a terrace or soak up the lively atmosphere of Marseille in a setting steeped in history.

A street steeped in history

The Cours Honoré d’Estienne d’Orves has undergone numerous transformations over the centuries. At the end of the 15th century, King Charles VIII decided to have the first tercenal built there in 1488 to house an arsenal for the galleys. A few years later, in 1494, he had the complex extended with six new tercenaux intended to house, maintain and arm the royal galleys. In 1512, Louis XII ordered the construction of twelve further tercenaux, but only six were ultimately built.

In 1529, whilst Emperor Charles V was laying siege to Marseille, François I strengthened the kingdom’s naval power by commissioning the construction of thirteen new galleys to defend the city. More than a century later, in 1646, the Brothers of Saint Vincent de Paul founded the hospital for convicts, intended to house those sentenced to serve on the galleys.

In the early 18th century, the district continued to develop. In 1702, an inland canal was dug. Initially called the Darse, it was renamed the Canal de la Douane in 1780. Its course followed what is now the Place aux Huiles and the Cours Jean-Ballard. Five years later, in 1707, the Galley Arsenal was completed. The site then became the largest arsenal in the Kingdom of France, capable of accommodating up to 40 galleys, nearly 8,000 convicts and a large royal garrison.

In 1781, the galleys fell into decline and the State mergedthe Marseille Arsenal with that of Toulon, selling the site to the City. Wealthy merchants then moved in. However, the construction of the Port Autonome de la Joliette brought an end to this affluent bourgeoisie, who in turn left, making way for a more working-class and artisanal neighbourhood.

The Canal de la Douane was filled in between 1927 and 1929. It was then that the publishing and local press industries moved in. Thus, Jean Ballard’s *Les Cahiers du Sud* took up residence along the former canal, followed by Éditions Lafitte and *La Marseillaise*, breathing new life into the neighbourhood.

In 1965, a multi-storey car park was built, managed by Shell. As it marred the landscape, it was not until 1987 that the City Council voted to demolish it – following 20 years of complaints from local residents – and replace it with an underground car park. It was the urban planner Charlie Bové who was commissioned to redesign the entire Cours d’Estienne d’Orves in 1989, transforming it into the space we know today.

What is there to do at the Cours d’Estienne d’Orves?

Nowadays, this vast pedestrianised area is one of Marseille’s main tourist attractions. It is home to numerous restaurants, mainly serving Provençal specialities, Mediterranean cuisine and seafood (including the famous bouillabaisse from the fish market at Marseille’s Vieux-Port).

You’ll also find local crafts here. The square regularly hosts cultural events, exhibitions and live sports broadcasts during major events.

In 1983, the Maison de l’Artisanat et des Métiers d’Art was established by the City of Marseille and built on the site of the former galley shipyard. The Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region is home to the largest number of craftspeople in France. This is why Marseille had the honour of hosting this venue for exchange between artists and the public, which also enabled the passing on of traditional skills to future generations.

However, it was forced to close its doors following the Covid crisis. It has now been replaced by a farmers’ market, food shops and local restaurants, and has been renamed ‘Les Grandes Halles du Vieux-Port ’. These are Marseille’s first large market halls. This project was led by entrepreneurs from Marseille.