A bit of history
This tradition, which first started in 1925, consists of serving 13 desserts or calenos at the end of the big Christmas dinner. But why not 12 or 14 of them?
It is in fact a reference to the religion very present in Provence: Christ having taken his last meal with his 12 apostles before being crucified, there are thus 12 desserts for the latter and 1 for the Christ. These thirteen desserts must be arranged on 3 tablecloths, in the middle of 3 candles (or candleholders), as well as 3 cups of the wheat of Saint Barbara (symbol of the Trinity). They are eaten after the midnight mass and will remain on the table for the 3 days following the big dinner.