Guided tour: On the way to the Mucem

Meeting at the Old Port

On this winter’s morning, the cold may be making itself felt, but the sun is in full swing.
We waited patiently at the meeting place: the Ombrière Foster.
Having lived in Marseille for several years, I’d never taken the time to stop and admire the structure and the play of light under this immense mirror.
So today, I decided to take the time to explore the history of this thousand-faceted city.

Let’s get to grips with the history of Marseille!

Welcomed warmly by the guide, she begins her tour with something that piques our curiosity: l’ombrière du Vieux-Port. This metallic structure with its blue and silver reflections, designed by the British architect Norman Foster, offers a bird’s eye view of the Old Port. It is the very essence of the visit: the power of modernity built on a site steeped in adventure and legend.

This astonishing contrast quickly brings us to the very history of this symbolic Vieux-Port. In addition to its size and shape, it was here that Greek sailors landed in 600 BC. Marseille was therefore the first port of call for these inhabitants. Coming straight from Phocaea, these Greeks founded the city of Massilia and shaped its history. Although Marseille bore a strong resemblance to their original city, they quickly reorganised it over the years.

The Vieux-Port is a gateway to the Mediterranean. From here, you can see many of the city’s landmarks: La Canebière, the famous avenue known by its name where hemp was planted; Rue de la République, now known as ‘Rue de la Rep’, a very dark street long disowned by the people of Marseille; and the north bank of the Vieux-Port, where the style of the buildings differs because of its reconstruction.

As the guide tells us stories, we let our imaginations take us on a journey. In front of us, much nobler buildings, cobblestones, perhaps even the sound of horses. On the Canebière, an immense field where the scent of flowers perfumes the boats nearby. To our left, the sun-drenched north bank invites us to continue our epic journey.

The move towards modernity

The tour moves at the pace of history. After discovering the Old Port and its various stories, the tour continues to the north bank, renowned by the people of Marseille for lounging on terraces on sunny days. This bank, which is sunny all day long, was in fact the only inhabited bank around the Old Port. It was the Sun King who later decided to extend the city.

Redeveloped in 2013, the north bank now offers one of the most beautiful views of Marseille, but above all a glimpse of the one who protects its inhabitants: the Good Mother. I just love walking here! It’s a chance to appreciate the gentle way of life, to see the boats coming and going and to be lulled by the reflection of the water.

It’s also a time to pay attention to the fishermen’s boats and the surprising details. Can you recognise what’s hidden inside? One thing’s for sure, you’ll be amazed!

Buildings saved from history

Behind us is the Town Hall, one of the few buildings not to have been destroyed in the 1940s. In the 13th century, it already had a central role and place. On the ground floor, it served as a place where merchants kept their grain. The first floor was used for municipal meetings. Today, this distinct separation between the two floors still exists, as the highest landing is only accessible from the rear of the building known as the Pavillon Bargemon, linked by an arcade.

A stone’s throw away, crossing the Place Bargemon in the Panier district, is a diamond, also saved from ruin during the Second World War in 1943. This is the Maison Diamantée. Although the date of its construction is uncertain, its Italian-inspired architectural style owes its name to its façade, which is carved with pointed stones. This technique is known as ‘diamond point brushing’. Once home to the collections of the Musée du Vieux Marseille, it is now occupied by municipal services.

This structure, as astonishing as it is, begs the question of how many different façades there are in this district, all built at different times.